Take it slowly along the Canal du Midi

Taking it Slow Along the Canal du Midi
April 27, 2023

Uncover the splendors of the Canal du Midi within the south of France by exploring by boat, bike and on foot.

As anybody who’s taken a ship journey right here will inform you, sliding by way of the eerily darkish Tunnel de Malpas is a good deal with. However to actually expertise this emblematic website on the Canal du Midi, a couple of miles west of Beziers, it is best to stroll alongside the towpath contained in the tunnel with knowledgeable information. Like this, you may step again in time and study the fascinating story of the way it was constructed, in addition to what makes it so particular.

As our information, Mighty Gerard, explains, the 165-meter-long construction, which dates again to 1680, just isn’t solely a rare feat of engineering, however the world’s first navigable canal tunnel. Voila! The UK could also be happy with its canal-building ingenuity, however the French bought there first. Extra particularly, Béziers-born Pierre-Paul Riquet masterminded the mission, fixing a selected set of issues on website. As we additionally know, the tunnel is the one one on the canal. However probably the most stunning truth about it’s that it was dug up in simply over per week — to the chagrin of skeptics, amongst whom was then-Finance Minister Jean-Baptiste Colbert. However again to that story in a second.

Learn extra: Life within the Sluggish Lane: Boating on the Canal du Midi

Malpas Tunnel © Steve Turnbull

The following cease on our journey is a brief hike up the hill overlooking the tunnel. On the high we uncover the Oppidum d’Ensérune (“oppidum” means fortified metropolis or settlement in Latin). Listed as a historic monument since 1935, it’s extensively thought of one of the vital essential Gallo-Roman websites in southern France. The newly renovated museum actually has a formidable assortment of artifacts, illustrating the vary of civilizations, together with the Celtic and Iberian, which have left their mark right here. It additionally locations the location, which dates from the seventh century BC to the primary century AD, into a really clear historic context with the assistance of fashions and trendy multimedia know-how.

What’s extra, the museum tells an interesting story concerning the archaeologists’ excavations of Ubdom after its discovery by Abbot Genies in 1860. However maybe probably the most fascinating side of the location is the necropolis (necropolis) the place the stays of a whole lot of its inhabitants are situated. ex. It was found. Many of those objects have been ‘dropped at life’ throughout the Museum so convincingly that the impact may be very poignant certainly.

Learn extra: A journey by way of time on the Canal du Midi

The extraordinary Étang de Montady © Steve Turnbull

However this isn’t all that the location has to supply. It additionally overlooks the Étang de Montady which is not like something we have seen within the south of France or wherever else – from above it appears like a large dartboard. In reality, this dry lake (Etang) within the Center Ages as a drainage system to extend arable land, enhance irrigation, and management insect infestations. Surprisingly, the tunnel that channeled the water continues to be in use at the moment. Later, by way of extra data on the Maison de Malpas Customer Middle, situated proper subsequent to the Channel Tunnel, we start to place collectively an in depth image of the realm. Certainly, it’s a historic crossroads the place antiquity and modernity meet: along with different tunnels, the Roman Through Domitia, which runs by way of the realm, is the oldest in France, and there’s a railway tunnel connecting Bordeaux and Sete. We additionally study that Malpas means “dangerous cross,” however there’s nothing unfavorable about what we have seen thus far. Quite the opposite, the gorgeous surroundings of Hérault, which has greater than a touch of Provence or Tuscany, was simply as fascinating because the historic sights.

The following day we take a brief drive west to Capestang. This village is thought for being a fairly port on the channel, however its middle is equally charming and provides loads of curiosity. On the 14th-century Collégiale Saint-Étienne, which overlooks the market sq., we meet Dominique Saillard for a guided tour. This apparently begins with an introduction to the historical past of the church, then strikes on to our favourite half, the bell tower (clocher). Midway up the “secret room” Dominic exhibits us a chess board carved into the stone flooring that was utilized by troopers, and on the high we get pleasure from great panoramic views stretching throughout the coastal plain and all the best way to the Pyrenees.

The port space of ​​Capestang © Steve Turnbull

Medieval attraction
Subsequent cease is the Château des Archevêques de Narbonne (the summer season residence of the Archbishops of Narbonne) only a stone’s throw away. Right here, within the Nice Corridor, Dominic lights his torch on the beams of the picket ceiling, revealing some great medieval work. Extra importantly, since virtually the whole lot in museums is protected behind glass today, the work are “within the open air.” Nonetheless, they’re nonetheless very properly preserved, which allows us to understand how ornate they’re, wealthy in shade and really symbolic. The expertise is kind of magical, particularly for the reason that id of the painter(s) from all these centuries in the past continues to be a thriller.

Later, we get pleasure from a tour and a really tasty Mediterranean lunch on the just lately opened microbrewery, Brasserie Oppidum, in Capestang. The area could also be identified for its wine, however should you can bottle this place’s ardour for craft beer, you may open an entire chain of breweries. Bravo additionally to 2 glorious eating places that we loved regionally – Le Vauban within the coronary heart of the village, and L’Auberge de la Croisade simply behind it in Cruzy, with its quaint canal-side setting.

Picturesque Poilhes © Steve Turnbull

The following morning we headed again in direction of Beziers to a different lovely port, Colombiers, for a ship journey. After a technical briefing on our seven-seater from one of many house owners at Sunboat (the corporate provides a collection of license-free boats), we’ll quickly be working alongside the canal. We quickly method Tunnel de Malpas and provides the compulsory horn on the horn in case a bigger car arrives within the different course. Because it occurs, we’re within the clear and emerge on the different finish to a extra exhilarating scene. Then we flip at Poilhes, one other picturesque canal village providing a collection of eating places. Right here, we had the most effective veggie meals we have ever had in France – merci beaucoup, Les Platanes!

On our final day we head to the outskirts of Beziers. Overlook what you will have heard about this metropolis, it’s a very wealthy and enticing historic place that has undergone an enormous transformation lately. A should go to is the Écluses de Fonseranes, a cascading lock system, additionally created by Riquet, which is actually superb. Not too long ago, the realm has seen the event of an intensive community of motorbike and strolling paths, so we rented bikes and headed to the charming Maison Batelière (dwelling of the lock keeper) and again, taking within the Pont-Canal de l’Orb and Pont Vieux alongside the best way.

Learn extra: Languedoc for nature lovers

Biking alongside the canal on the Écluses de Fonseranes © Steve Turnbull

Engineering feat
Lastly, we get pleasure from one in all our favourite experiences of the journey: the immersive cinema on the Écluses de Fonseranes Customer Centre. Right here, with headphones on for hanging, we’re surrounded by the motion because the story of this most spectacular and arguably most scenic part of the Canal du Midi unfolds. What marks greater than anything is Rickett’s epic canal mission, aided by hordes of staff. It actually wasn’t all straightforward crusing. To choose up on Colbert’s story, he was satisfied (with King Louis XIV respiration down his neck, little question) that the Malpas Tunnel would collapse due to the crumbling hillside. However, undaunted, Rickitt had the sheer audacity to construct it in secret utilizing structural helps — tunnel imaginative and prescient, you would possibly say. Sadly, the engineering genius died simply eight months earlier than the canal was accomplished. However his legacy lives on: at the moment, his exceptional achievements are celebrated each regionally and globally – the realm was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Website in 1996. It is also a serious website in France “in a mission” (aiming to achieve full standing in a well timed method).

So, in case you are fortunate sufficient to go to this nook of France, make sure you take a while, lazy tourism type, to discover it in its entirety. Along with being completely lovely, it’s surprisingly wealthy in historical past and provides a lot to get pleasure from, each on and off the canal.

From France Right now journal

Major picture proprietor: Boats alongside the canal at Poilhes © Steve Turnbull

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