The world would love to consider Paris as a continuing city gem, however the reality is that (as in most main cities) it modifications on a regular basis. These may be huge modifications, such because the conversion of the town’s former principal submit workplace on rue du Louvre into the charming Madame Rêve Resort, or small diversions, such because the unhappy demise of the Outdated England Division Retailer, the place Marcel Proust beloved to purchase his cashiers. (Considerably disappointingly, this gorgeous oak-paneled store has turn into a luxurious watch boutique.)

This inevitable turmoil makes me respect greater than ever these locations that by no means change, the right instance of which is the charming restaurant Au Petit Riche within the coronary heart of the town not removed from the Opera. It opened in 1854, and has remained largely unchanged since then.

In reality, I hadn’t been right here in ages, however when a good friend known as to inform me that they had a brand new menu and likewise opened a wine bar, I urged we go for lunch. Once we met, I had the pleasure of being right here earlier than we might even eaten something, as a result of this pretty eating room with its authentic brass fixtures (together with coat racks and overhead lighting fixtures that after had been gasoline lamps) has been enhanced—with new crimson velvet upholstery. On the banquettes and a few contemporary paint right here and there – however nothing modified.

The menu has developed however stays a monument to conventional French cooking with glorious entrees comparable to pâté en croûte And oeufs mimosas We shared, together with different first programs comparable to trout, roasted beetroot salad, and lentil salad with smoked eel. Since we each wished poached haddock with child spinach, roasted new potatoes, and white mullet made with Montlouis wine from the Loire, we agreed on this dish and one other one from Quinel de Broche (pies pike perch) with prof Nantua sauce. Our selection of those two fish dishes was additionally guided by our need to get pleasure from a bottle of one among my favourite wines, the Salon Mennetou white by Philippe Gilbert (Loire Valley wines are this restaurant’s specialty, with over 300 references).

We rounded off the meal by sharing a plate of three completely different Loire Valley goat cheeses with apple sauce after which one among my favourite desserts, the Napoleon III pudding. Nougat aux fruits, which additionally known as for slightly pour of charming Domaine Aubert Vouvray Pétillant wine. The glad lesson from this meal, then, is that typically issues have to vary slightly to remain the identical. (By the way in which, they’ve additionally opened a wonderful new wine bar on the similar deal with.)

25, avenue Le Peletier, ninth arrondissement, Paris.
telephone. (33) 01 47 70 68 68
www.restaurant-aupetitriche.com
Common 60 euros a la carte.